Afjeh to Dasht e Havij hike.

Travel light! This is the most important advice I can give.  If you are going to take a long hike, do your best to keep your package as light as possible.  Learn easy ways to provide any needs by yourself, wherever possible.  the lighter you are, the faster you can move and the less you get tired, and you extend your range and possibilities this way.

Last Friday 20 May 2011, I finally begin to try my long planned solo hike.  It is years I have not done pressure tests like this on myself, and as a non-athletic person reaching 40,  I had to prove some things to myself and get back on track.

The original plan was to have a 100 km (direct line, not considering ups and downs and zigzags and hills/obstacles) path, from north of Tehran, towards Caspian sea.  This is one of  routes people used to travel a hundred years ago, passing through Alborz mountains.

Some 35 to 40 km of the way was hiking only, and the rest has roads. These are not unoccupied, there are villages in parts of the path, but the height isolates Tehran province from Mazandaran.  Tehran is almost at 1200 meters from sea level while the lowest possible paths in my plan are at least 2 series of 3100 meter steep mule and mountaineering routes.

The mountains are such high that even weather is totally isolated in those 2 provinces, they have a totally different weather sets because of this.

Starting at 11:30 a.m., I began the hike.  It was years I have not tried steep trails, and I had some 20kgs of packs with me, which made it even harder at first. the first part took about 5 to 6 hours, including time for lunch and drink etc.  But it was obvious my body was not adapted yet.  I pushed and pushed until I reached the first day target, Dasht e Havij (Carrot plains). It is said a hundred years ago people were used to grow carrots there, but now they cultivate cherry trees.  People hike there at holidays, but not more.  after this plain, it is mountaineering.

I set my base there at 17:00, set up my poncho tent, prepared food, sleeping bag etc. before sunset I noticed a caravan of mules coming down from the west  side of valley. so I talked to them about conditions and if there is any danger out there etc.  They told me  there are no wolves as it is warm and also we talked about if there are thieves etc. I was a little worried then.  Imagine a plain, huge valley and nothing but you, it could be dangerous   So I totally went stealth after dinner, no flames no fire nothing.  Nobody could see me.

Night was so beautiful, black with the whole set of stars and planets, until at around 24:00 or 1:00 moon finally came up over the east wall and made everything light, and I finally fell asleep.

Day 2 was tough (at least for me).  I climbed to 3160 altitude, through a mule way locals showed me.  It was wider than the walking way but more stones and less water.  All water was at other side of the valley, eastern wall.  Started 7:30 and about 1 or 2 I was at top of the path, after lunch.

Then I had to descend down.  It was beautiful scenery, with Damavand peak at one side, and all green mounts and hills spread through the scenery, again with lots of streams and small waterfalls, and snow in some places.

I reached the flat at around 4 maybe, and I had to path now-bigger streams so I could reach a road,  to make shelter and sleep for the next day.

For some reasons, my mobile charge emptied, and solar charger couldn’t help either.  I couldn’t take photos after descend and I had no access to Google maps etc. to map the trail directly.

After having dinner and coffee, and due not being able to take photos the next day,  I decided something strange.  I decided to go to plan B, not going forward, but towards Lar reservoir, where I fish every summer.  No cars were ever passed that road, I had to walk, and it was just getting dark.  I walked very fast for two hours,  funny when you are heavy and go up it differs a lot.  I guess I walked about 10kms in 2 hours until I reached an environmental office so I could get clean water (all streams were fast and muddy, although  a huge amount of water existed).

I made shelter there and blanked out

3rd day,  I couldn’t even walk.  My stomach was upset and I didn’t want to eat any breakfast before I feel better.

Last night the guy at that office told me what road I should chose to continue on, so I followed his instructions, find a bridge (I was between 2 large streams at this time) and crossed south of it.

Then it was a road among green hills towards south east and after a few hours, and seeing only 3 cars in the opposite direction, talking to them, I reached the entrance point to the park.  There was no chance any cars pass before sunset, and it was about13:00, so I had to continue on foot.  From here it was an steep road up to 3000+ meter altitude (again!), and I walked and walked to about 50 meter to the top point when a car came by, 3 young men were inside and I asked them for  a ride and they accepted, so we drove the next 10,15 km to the city of Rudehen, east of Tehran.

Rest is history, I took a taxi and an hour later I was home.  3 days of walking finished in an hour!  That morning I didn’t even think I would be home by afternoon, but it happened.

Next time I will continue the plan A and I will reach Caspian sea on foot,  But I will go there much much lighter than this time, I am sure!

You can view more photos of the day 1 and day 2 at my Panoramio account and on Google Earth.  There are also a few clips I took which I may edit and upload on Youtube later.  I will let you know in next posts.

This video contained a great Greenday music synched to it beautifully, but unfortunately Youtube forced me to remove the music for copyright problems.  If you wanted the original version tell me directly please.

Paymaan.

looking west south, in the middle of lake (a point of soil is out of water) is where I was fishing last year, when water level was so low!

For 3rd year on, I decided to go to Laar lake at Damavand peak foot fishing for the rare brownies, yes these are really rare, at least in Iran, where this lake is the only lake holding them.

Line of cars waiting to enter the protected area and get permissions, Fog everywhere.

Well past 2 month have passed very hard in my country, so I really couldn’t go sooner, and it is about the end of the legal fishing season (for this species of course).   I thought I need to go there before I totally miss this year’s chances.

after environmental post, I am waiting for Sepehr to take the permissions.

My cousin and I got on road at 3 in the morning and went along Haraaz road.  When we were about to turn to the Laar road at Polur, 3 hitchhikers asked us to give them a ride to the lake, and we made friends along the way.

Before reaching dam, fog everywhere

They were enough enthusiastic for this species that they have been came all the way from Amol at northern province of Mazandaran.  From Imamzadeh Hashem peak The way was all in the fog, and it continued to be the same along the Laar road.  Near the environmental post, it was a long long line of cars waiting to get permissions and enter the area.  Believe me, some of those are so eager they almost race this last part which is not much paved and has no asphalt.  They all want to get to the lake to get the best place and also to not lose the morning, you will find out why this one is important later.

Delichai river

In that day, they started giving permissions at 5:30, so everybody lost at least 30 minutes of valuable time. I guess we lost even more, as line was long.  So we continued towards middle of the lake.  This year the lake contains much more water due lots of rains in the spring, and my last year’s fishing location was totally under water.  That is good news for Tehran of course, we have enough water this year.

camera looking south, My cousin Sepehr, we are walking toward the lake.

After parking at side of road and 20 minutes of walking, I decided on a location eastward which was under a hills shadow at least for an hour or two, we started at about 7:00, finally.

looking east, still foggy, but sun has rose and still ok for fishing

Some other people have been reached there before us, and their lines were casted already, but we had a 100 meter area to our own.  I used a 3 string trout rig (a last night’s work), used earth worms on two bottom ones and 1/4 of Kilka (some kind of Caspian Sardine) on the top hook set.  Casted about 50 meters and started to prepare the second rod.  The first fish was caught in a few seconds.

looking east, laar lake, still foggy, cool, best conditions for brown trout fishing.

It was not a big catch, but very encouraging.  Kilka bait worked there. and as it was still foggy and cool, I believe this was the perfect condition.  caught the first one, again caste the line and tried to prepare the second rod, again the first one caught some fish!  I was really feeling lucky

a 39 cm brown trout, with black and red dots, and almost green top

This one was 39 cm long, and kind of heavy for this species, maybe about 1 kg or so, I didn’t weight it as sun was raising and clouds were disappearing.  Then it seemed no luck, and I was also trying different combination of baits.  Nothing except Kilka seemed to work, and overall we got another big brown trout which was both big and fighting.  Unfortunately (for me, not for the fish )  after I removed hooks from her, she put 2 of hooks in my finger and jumped in the water, and danced all the way to the deep lake

My fishing rod still waiting more fish, but no fog and it is getting warm

We got nothing as clouds were gun, and nobody in our area caught anything.  We stayed untill 3:00 p.m. and at the same moment the small one found a way in my keep net to get out, right when we were about to get back.  As it was too small, we didn’t anything serious to stop him, and he went back to the lake as well.

Overall, this time it was much more fun than those times before, and also warmer.  weather is so clean and cool, so wind is cool, but sun burns your skin.

Damavand peak inside clouds.

And last but not least, as always, I bought a few big rainbows from a Haraz river fish farm, it is always nice to buy fresh from the source!

I am not sure if I can og again this year, but I will if I can.  only one week remains from the legal season.

Paymaan.

I tried to get some sleep the Sunday 8th June, as I didn’t get a good sleep for a few days before, thinking I needed to gather my strength and wake up very early and I was to drive about 90 Km to the Laar reservoir and Damavand peak.

I waked up at about 3:00 a.m. Monday 9th and get ready, I drive towards the gas station at about 4:00 filled the tank (for USD2, you won’t beleive it no?) and got to the road at total dark. an hour later I have been passed the Emamzadeh Hashem peak, were people stop to take a rest, buy things, do their prayers etc. etc. after riding such a hard ramp road. The sun was not yet up, as it was hidden behind the beauty of Damavand peak. about 15 km after Emamzadeh Hashem, you reach the Polour, were its mineral water is so pure and famous in Iran.

before you leave the Polour, you have to turn to the left and get out of Haraz road, there is a sign about Laar Dam and also an statue of a mountaineer so nobody can miss the entrance. You have to go about 20 km more in a very calm and pretty asphalt road. normally at fishing days, it is not so calm, but I was an hour late from other faster enthusiast, so I was almost alone in the road).

Imagine this, a great peak at your right Damavand stays still covering the sun at 5:40, at the left side you see a huge field of wild tulips, specially at these time of year. It is a great experience. And believe me, the temperature was so cold I was shaking, I didn’t want to forbid myself from feeling the pure oxygen in the air.

After reaching the Dam entrance, asphalt road ends and you enter a very very bad road to the right which goes towards the lake and peak (there are other ways to the peak as well). Preferably you need a 4×4 not because the road is not suitable for normal cars, but becuase there are a lot of stones in the road you don’t want them to hit below your car, and also that on a higher car you can go much faster, I had to keep the speed under 20 km/h but still the sound of ride was so annoying.

After 2km in the bad road, you reach to the environmental post which you have to obtain both fishing license and entry permission. I have a one year permission for fishing, but for this special kind of trout you have to obtain a one day permit as well (for about USD 3.60). I got it in Tehran the day before, so I only had to pay about USD 1.20 for the entry and entered the area. From this point on, you can see the lake at your left side, and the sun still was hiding behind Damavand. Here, the wild tulip fields are ended and many other plants are seen, mostly yellow flowers, but also Lavender and others which I don’t know their names.

You go down and down very slowly, until you reach the Delichai river. It is an small but very fresh river, the first of about 250 waters which enter the reservoir, and you can start fishing right here. Most people prefer to go were this river enters the lake, about 500 meters to the south of road, but some also prefer to continue to explore the 11Km northern border of the lake, many like me go about 3 km more from this point, but I wish I hadn’t. I could park the car here and go on foot to the beginning of the lake, because all my plans were changed as water level was unbelievably low even at this time of year.

I have been planned to go 3 more km from Delichai river, were there is a cut in the water, and then go about 170 meters on foot, sit at lake side and start fishing. Unfortunately, although I go were I was planned, water level was so low I had to go about 1 more km on foot walking in the now dry part of the lake to reach the water and all good places were occupied by then

At about 6:36, I was reached the water. I was pretty hungry by then, but preferred to set up my rod and reel and attached one of my mepps lures and spinners to try a few times and also wet my line in a shallow part.

Then I went to an stationary position which was still not that deep and set up my trout rigs. I tried that location for an hour or two, using my spinners and lures, and also tried my MisterTwister plastic lures both as jigs and also as trout rigs to no avail. nothing happened, even a professional spinner fisher man came by and used his proven Mepps #3 or #2 Aglia with red dots (faking the exact same species we are looking for in Laar Lake; Brown trout) and still he caught nothing at my location.

So I tried to change the location and went somewhere closer to those who could be able to catch some fish since early morning.

Other than not being able catch fish until 18:00 which I left the lake, I really enjoyed of being right in front of a gigantic, 360 degree, wide screen view of Damavand peak. It was a really great view. The weather went from very cool to a little warmer, to windy, and finally to windy and so cool I couldn’t stay.

I found some new friends there, and they had much better skills and baits and they caught fish up to 40 cm untill around 11:00, but fish stopped feeding until 15:00, nobody caught any in that period.

After talking to those friends, I found out that these Brown trouts are seem very smart, unlike rainbow trouts down in Haraz river which are mostly around a few monthes old, these Brownies (or as we call them red-dot trouts) are around 3, 4 years normally. They seem to know the tricks, and they don’t get attracted to fake lures and silicon and plastics!

The bait people were using was parts of Kilka (a kind of Caspian minnow or shad) plus night crawlers and earth worms. I got a few from friends and tried them, and although I caught nothing, fish were biting actually, and they ate all the worms so fast.

The other problem was fish were at very deep waters, after 8:00 there were almost no surface feeding. Most results were at deepest parts. spinners got good results, but you need a shorter and faster rod and a thinner line, say 0.20 mm was the thickest possible. otherwise you could not get the farthest distance needed for light spinners.

Back to the car, I picked a whole bunch of several species of herbs, which had pretty flowers, and then after I reached the wild tulip field, I also grabbed a big bunch of that as well. 2 hours of driving to the home, and the moment I entered the Tehran area the heat was so high breathing was hard.

I also got a lot of sun burns at ankles and face even having a hat.

Next time, I will not forget to bring my Kilka and earth worms, maybe I find it even more entertaining and funny. I may also park the car at entrance and walk all the way down, as it was so hard to take out all the dirt out of the car. A 4×4 car is a must.

Paymaan.

Hi everybody,

Monday 9th June 2008, the fishing season at Laar dam reservoir will start.  I see people are planning to be there for brown trouts (native to Iran and specially to Laar river), so although I have been at Caspian shore just a few days ago, I am planning to be there, probably to also participate in the season competition.

I am not sure if I can really be prepared in 3 days, but everything of my tools are in my car’s trunk and I am really eager to start the season wih everybody else.  I also had the opportunity to take some pictures during my past trip to the Caspian, including a few from the road, which is very beautiful in this time of the year.

I will try to put these on Google Earth as soon as I can, so everybody else enjoys.

Paymaan.

If you are fishing for fun, or just playing by the lake or river in a good day, you may use a single line of any type, a wooden or metal hook made by yourself and a branch of a tree and it may work, but here I want to share tips which can help us achieve better results, and have more fun or more fish for the dinner

Fishing by rod and hook is actually tricking the fish to think she is reaching for food, hunting for it,  finding it or anything else you like to name it.  We want to fish to eat the bait or whatever we have on the hook so it traps himself and we catch it.

So first of all we have to know the feeding behavior.

• Some fish are visual feeders, they “look” for food, by their eyes I mean.
• Some sense the smell of the food rather than seeing it.
• Some are like filters, they eat whatever comes forward and filter out the waste and keep the food.

For visual feeders, we need baits which attract the fish visually, for those who smell, we need smelly food and bait, and for the third we can almost do nothing if we use hook instead of the net. Mullet is of the last type, ofcourse it too has some ways of catching which we can later talk about.

The other thing we have to know is that in what condition they start feeding. If you have everything ready and fish is not willing to eat or attack, then you will not catch it. I have stayed at a lake full of brown trouts for several hours without any fish even trying to bite the tons of different lures and bait I had with myself. Well don’t be scared, even if I didn’t catch anything, I enjoyed the lake side and the weather and the nature so much! that is the good thing about fishing.

Then in some ways, consider planning what size of fish you want to catch. The size really matters in this case, you have to have proper line, hook and rod, as well as proper reel.

As we go, you will learn more about this kind of fish behavior. I’ll try to share my knowledge of the some of fish so we can better decide to how fish for the target species.

As an start know that Sport fish like trout, bass and pike are all visual hunters and this is really good for us. Then species like carp, chub (white fish or Sefid Maahi as we say in Iran), catfish and surgeon are more likely to hunt for the smell of the food, smell attracts them more than the visuals, although not absolutly.

Because of this big difference, we normally take two kind of strategy for this two major groups.

More on this in the next post.

Paymaan.

For some long time I had nothing in my brain at all, what about some overflow but today I really felt like writing, and I am going to start some basic discussions about fishing. Just keep in mind I am an amateur myself with absolutely no catches at least during the year 2007, So I am trying to give hints on what I already know, and what I have studied and learned through web, Chasse Et Peche channel, and hints I have learned from experts.Ok, Enough of scaring you of lack of my expertise, let’s see what things an average fisherman needs to start fishing. Consider you can catch fish using almost nothing other than your hands or a piece of wooden hook and a line, but we are not talking of survival skills, we are talking about some kind of average sport fishing.

Tools you need include basic fishing tackle, things like:

• some kind of fishing rod, to be able to cast and handle your line and play/fight with fish.
• fishing line, of any suitable form
• hooks, again of a suitable form for our purpose
• some kind of reel to hold your line, sometimes to help you fight fish as well
• some bait to attract fish to bite the hook, normally fish food, lure, bread, etc. etc. but I have seen people catch huge pikes using AA batteries as bait!
• Something to use as weight, to keep your hook underwater, in some types of fishings. These are normally lead or other metallic weights, but every other heavy enough thing would be ok. Sometimes bait is heavy enough, sometimes you need reverse weight, I mean something to bring the bait up, some kind of floating weight. You may even use your friend as bait and weight for catching huge fish
• sometimes you need floats, these are tools to keep part of your line out of water, so the other part will stay on some specific depth of water.

Then you need some skills, some are more needed, some less, but be sure, the more you have these skills, it will be more professional, and it will be more fun!

• First of all, it is much better to know the fish species you are trying to catch. Every kind of fish has its own habits, diet, feeding time, strategy etc. etc.
• Ability to learn and tie some fishing knots. If you don’t know how to tie a hook to a line, your fish along your hook will escape easily. Even some kind of small fish are more powerful than knots you regularly know!
• If you want to practice Catch and Release, you have to know how to handle that species of fish. Carp stay a lot more alive outside water than trout. and then Catfish does much longer than the others! If you do it wrong, even if you release the fish, it may die
• Ability to choose suitable hook, rig, line, knot etc. for each species of fish, and to choose somehow what size of fish you plan to catch. Some fish have small mouthes, some have big ones (say Pikes, my favorite fish ). So you have to select the correct things.

So you see, while you can still put a hook on a line and put the line on a branch of tree and put a worm as bait on the hook and catch fish just like Pink Panther does, there are lot more to it. Every of those needs I mentioned have a huge variety to select from, and each are better for some specific fishings.

I will start to talk about them one by one in the following articles, and I hope you enjoy.
Paymaan.

Actually, I guess it is a great sport, and most of the times it gives one a relaxation, the feel of nature, and lots of knowledge of insetcs and marine life.

Believe me, it is a nice hobby, and almost everybody with access to a pond, river or dam can easily enjoy it.

Anyway, in this category I would like to talk my opinions about nature, fishes, fishing holes, different kind of lures and baits, different techniques and equipments etc.

So, you too share your opinions about this and let me know if I can give any advices etc. Just consider I am an amateur fishing enthusiast, trying to explore things on every opportunity, I am not an expert, and I too watch and read and study what experts say, to learn, on a day by day basis, my comments might not be as accurate as of those of expert fishermen.

A lot more on this later!

Paymaan.